20ish? (Km is unsure because of a detour we took. Book days 24 but it was probably 19??)
I'm currently sitting in the tent, all set up, at 4pm. Russ is still hiking because he is my hero. Water is an extra 6km away (3 out and 3 back) and he went to get us 6 more liters. He's my hero. Sometimes it scares me because he's so tough I feel like I'm going soft. I'm always the one falling apart, and he's just always there smiling. He's amazing.
This morning we woke up cozy and warm in the trail angels’ tiny room, and I honestly didn't want to get up. We read a little then, after getting locked in the room temporarily, packed our things. We got on the road but I felt heavy. Usually after town I feel so good getting back on trail but I think my body wants a zero. We have yet to take a full day off and so I struggled to leave town. We walked to the edge of the crater and stopped for some grape leaves which I thought might make things better. Usually, if you're not sure if you’re hungry when hiking, it means you are. After a snack we headed down to the bottom of the crater (which is the largest erosion crater in the world!!), then across. We both put music in and wandered through the sand and rocks. We stopped early for lunch, at a lone tree, apparently it's the only shade in the whole canyon (but it didn't matter today because it's very overcast). After lunch, more tunes, some slow climbs and descents. We eventually came to a road and as we walked the dirt road, two girls pulled over and gave us supper yummy juicy apples. People are kind.
Oh! My shoes kicked the bucket today. Well, yesterday maybe but now both left and right shoe have decent sized holes and are basically destroying my feet day by day because they are so thin. I've officially killed them with ten days left. I apologize in advance for any foot pain complaining that happens from here on out - my shoes really are trashed and there isn't anywhere to get new ones. The rest of the walk was whatever and now I'm at the campground solo as Russ walks. There are two other groups here and a guy in a car gave us some water so Russ doesn't have to carry as much. I've been thinking about how I really want to volunteer more. If anyone has suggestions I'm all ears.
One last thing is I feel so hyper tuned into what my body is feeling and doing when I hike like this. I think it's because there's nothing else to think about but I never notice my body this much, when it's good or bad. Also I have two red splotches on my legs that look similar to the thing on my hand... so that's interesting.
Late night addition: Once Russ came back we had ramen and our neighbor who was Israeli invited himself into our tent and chatted with us for a while then made a fire and we stayed up "late" and chatted with another girl who was American but teaching math abroad in Poland.